The most interesting person in Beckley, W.Va., leans against a magazine rack at Wal-Mart, a group of women gathered in front of him. One of them, middle-aged and tan, has been craning her head uncomfortably toward the ceiling for five minutes. "My husband is in Iraq," she says to Paul Sturgess, talking loudly enough to get the words about two and a half feet up to his ears. "And I'd just really like to get a picture. Would you wait here while I run and buy a disposable camera?"